After several weeks exploring Colombia, we continued our South American journey in early April 2025 to Brazil! This giant country, that was totally new to us, boasts iconic beaches, carnivals, vast rainforests, and the mighty Amazon River. Our first stops were in the Amazonas state in the Amazon rainforest, before we followed the Amazon river towards the coast. In this post a short introduction of Manaus, before jumping a board of a traditional riverboat to Santarém and further on to Belém, stopping at Alter do Chão’s famous beaches on the way. The post includes practical tips and cost breakdowns for Amazon riverboat trips – save it for your Amazonian adventure!
Manaus, metropolis in the heart of the rainforest
The adventure in Brazil began with an uncomfortable night on Manaus airport benches, after a red-eye flight from Bogotá, Colombia. In the morning, we Ubered downtown for currency exchange and to get a SIM card, before settling in a small apartment to explore this unique city.
Tropical Manaus, capital of Amazonas State, sits at the confluence of the dark Rio Negro and pale Amazon River – the “Meeting of Waters”. Accessible by oceangoing vessels 1,500km inland, this metropolis of 2 million thrives despite its rainforest isolation. Founded in 1669 as Fort São José do Rio Negro, it’s now a hub for Amazon research and ecotourism. Popular activities include for example an 8-hour Anavilhanas Archipelago tours.
Amazon riverboat from Manaus to Santarém
The slowboat ride down the Amazon began at Manaus port by purchasing tickets to Santarém (€26pp) and hammocks. The São Bartholomeo VI, that is not a luxury cruiser but a local “water bus” carrying passengers and cargo, became our home for 29 hours. While a few very basic cabins exist, most travelers sleep in hammocks on deck. We had read some horror stories of super crowded decks, and arriving 3 hours before departure to ensure prime hammock spots. That wouldn’t have been necessary though, since this vessel was nowhere near full.
We chose upper deck spots with good views but sheltered from wind. The basic amenities included simple bathrooms and showers, as well as drinking water taps. The canteen sold snacks while the galley served meals (€4). Bring your own fruits/nuts/sweets for hammock snacking. Though satellite wifi was available for a decent price, we preferred disconnecting and focusing on the journey.
Post-departure, we soon reached the stunning Meeting of Waters, where the black Rio Negro and sandy Amazon flow side-by-side. While wildlife sightings proved elusive, we spent afternoons reading in hammocks, photographing lush shores, and enjoying €1 beers at sunset before having a simple dinner in the mess hall.
Even if the days were hot, the nights on the deck required long sleeves due to the wind – most of the locals used lovely, thick blankets, while we just tried to layer up. We went to sleep early, and woke up pre-dawn, when the boat arrived in Parintins. We bought a very basic breakfast (€1.50) that consisted of a bread with a cold cut, , apple, a cake slice and some sort of a sweet milk pudding, served with super-sweet coffee.
Around midday we arrived in Juruti port, where lunch vendors served meal boxes to the upper decks with long poles. Some boarded to sell goods directly too. The day went by mostly just swinging in the hammock, reading and takin in the views. As sunset painted the gold, we docked in Santarém and headed to our hotel – even if we enjoyed the boat ride, a proper shower and bed felt heavenly!
Beaches and iguanas in Alter do Chão
Our main target was Alter do Chão village (pop.7,000) west of Santarém. A 45-minute bus ride brought us to this dry-season paradise with media-famous beaches now flooded during April rains. Love Beach’s restaurant roofs barely peeked above water.
Two days blended work sessions with runs and walks around the village, caipirinhas at square-side restaurants and swimming at waterfront bars with literal in-water tables. Despite the rainy season, sunshine prevailed. While we didn’t do actual jungle treks, we spotted magnificent iguanas and river dolphins.
Amazon riverboat from Santarém to Belém
The river journey’s second leg of 43 hours took us from Santarém to Atlantic-facing Belém. The vessel, F/B San Marino, was quite similar to our first boat, but smaller. Boarding at dusk at Santarém port, we claimed upper deck hammock spots before the 9pm departure.
The day on board was all about taking it slow and observing the riverside life. For the local people, the Amazon serves as both highway and lifeline. We passed Almeirim city and Gurupá town, where youths dove from piers, wanting to show us their skills.
Sunset diverted us into narrow channels towards Belém. Morning brought closer jungle views near Barcarena’s beautiful waterways before skyscrapers dramatically emerged from rainforest – an unforgettable contrast after days afloat!
Amazon Riverboat Travel Facts & Tips
Costs:
- Manaus-Santarém: €26pp
- Santarém-Belém: €42pp
- Breakfast: €1.50
- Lunch/Dinner: €4
- Beer: €1 (small can)
- Hammock+ropes: €7-10
Book online or buy tickets at ports 1 day pre-departure
Speaking Portuguese helps but isn’t essential – use translation apps when needed.
Keep valuables with you all the time, taking them in your hammocks overnight.
Pack long sleeves/socks and take a blanket if possible, as the nights do get chilly.
We saw minimal amount of insects aboard, but carry repellent.
Bring ample snacks and some entertainment like a book, the journey is a perfect chance to disconnect!
Carry cash for onboard purchases, though cards often work too.
Where to get travel insurance for a longer trip?
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